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At water level, some 30 feet below street level, the river
is bordered--at least on those portions not transformed into expressways--by cobbled
quays graced with trees and shrubs. From street level another line of trees leans
towards the water. Between the two levels, the retaining walls, usually made of
massive stone blocks, are decorated with the great iron rings of a past ages commerce
and sometimes pierced by mysterious openings (water gates for old palaces or inspection
ports for subways, sewers and underpasses). Here and there the wall is shawled
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